The term “Chinese jackets” covers a wide range of styles, from traditional and historical garments to modern fashion pieces. Here’s a guide to the most common and iconic Chinese jackets and their names:
Traditional & Historical Jackets
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Tangzhuang (唐装) – The “Modern” Traditional Jacket
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What it is: This is the jacket most Westerners think of as a “Chinese jacket.” It’s characterized by a mandarin collar (stand-up collar) and frog buttons (knotted cloth closures).
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Context: Despite its name (which references the Tang Dynasty), the Tangzhuang is a modern reinterpretation. It became globally famous after APEC leaders wore them in 2001.
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When it’s worn: Today, it’s common for formal occasions, weddings, festivals like Chinese New Year, and as stylish uniform for hospitality staff.
work-uniform-suits
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Changshan (长衫) / Magua (马褂) – The “Traditional” Men’s Ensemble
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Changshan: A long, robe-like garment for men, also with a mandarin collar.
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Magua: The jacket worn over the Changshan. It is typically a shorter, sleeved jacket that is often embroidered.
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Context: This was the standard formal wear for men during the Qing Dynasty. The full ensemble is what is often called a “Mandarin suit.”
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Hanfu (汉服) – Jackets from the Han Ethnic Tradition
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This refers to the historical clothing of the Han Chinese people, predating the Qing Dynasty. There are several jacket styles within Hanfu:
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Ru (襦): A short, open jacket.
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Ao (袄): A longer, padded or lined jacket, often with wide sleeves.
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Context: Hanfu has seen a major revival in recent years as a form of cultural pride and is often worn by young people for photoshoots or festivals.
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Qipao / Cheongsam (旗袍) – The Iconic Dress (and its accompanying jacket)
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While the Qipao itself is a dress, it is very often worn with a matching or contrasting short jacket or overcoat, especially for formal events or in cooler weather.
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Modern & Workwear Jackets
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Mao Suit (中山装 – Zhongshan Suit)
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What it is: A utilitarian, high-collared jacket with four front flap pockets and five central buttons. It has no lapels.
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Context: Named after Sun Yat-sen (Sun Zhongshan), it was the standard male attire in China during the Mao era. It is now rarely worn in daily life but carries strong historical and political significance.
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While not having a specific traditional name, China is the world’s largest manufacturer of all kinds of work jackets, including:
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保安服 (Bǎo’ān fú): Security guard uniforms, which often look like a Mao suit or a formal blazer.
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工装 (Gōngzhuāng): General workwear, including durable jackets for construction or factory work.
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A Quick Guide to Identify Them
Jacket Name | Key Features | Typical Use |
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Tangzhuang (唐装) | Mandarin collar, frog buttons, often silk | Modern formal wear, festivals, weddings |
Magua (马褂) | Worn over a long robe, often embroidered | Historical (Qing Dynasty) formal wear |
Mao Suit (中山装) | High collar, no lapels, four pockets | 20th-century politics, historical symbol |
Hanfu Jackets (Ao/Ru) | Wide sleeves, often tied with a sash | Cultural revival, festivals, photoshoots |
Qipao Jacket | Short, elegant, worn over the dress | Formal events, fashion |
If you see a specific style you’d like to identify, feel free to describe it or share a picture, and I can give you a more precise answer